I read
about Ford’s terror a few years ago and it was top of the list of places to
visit on this trip. Ford’s Terror is a short arm off Endicott arm. Its waters
are uncharted and it has a narrow entrance with rocks and a reputation for
fearful rapids at this entrance. I think the name also fosters a certain
curious foreboding. Once inside it is said to be wondrous. A narrow channel
carves its way through mountains reportedly 9000 feet high that rise vertically
from the deep water. Here is what one guide book’s description of the place:
1,000 steps waterfall |
Although Ford’s Terror shows
up on charts as an unsurveyed indentation on the north side of Endicott arm,
skippers with a penchant for exploring can hardly resist its call. Ford’s
terror was reportedly named in 1889 for a crew member of the Patterson who
entered the narrows, got caught inside and spent a terrifying 6 hours until the
tide reversed. Not much data exists on Ford’s Terror, and since it is extremely
remote and has negligible radio reception cruising boats seldom visit it.
(Exploring Southeast Alaska by Don Douglass.)
To enter
Ford’s terror one has to transit the narrows at high water slack. Slack water times
are not published and reports vary between 40 minutes and 2 hours. We decided
to play it safe and get to the entrance at high water and wait and see when slack
water was by watching the flow. We navigated close to the north east wall by a
waterfall and dropped the anchor in 40ft over lose rock. We dragged a bit and
then as the current slowed we caught. We waited watching icebergs getting taken
through the narrows at a rate of knots. By 30 minutes past high tide the bergs
were stationary in the narrows and we decided to go for it. Navigating past some
reported rocks we weaved our way through the narrows with about 20ft of water
below us. Once clear we were rewarded with a breathtaking scene as we motored
up the channel. I can only describe the place as being like something created
by a divine being with carte blanche to shape spectacular formations: Hundreds
of waterfalls flow down black granite walls rising thousands of feet. Hanging
glaciers, lush forest, surreal water colours. More waterfalls that carve deep
into the granite and run down a thousand even steps. It is simply the most
spectacular place I have ever been lucky enough to visit.
We anchored
precariously in the west arm in 80 foot of water but swinging to 30ft of water
near the mud flats. I should have taken an anchor to shore to stop us swinging
into deeper water but we seemed pretty settled and there were no other boats to
worry about swinging into.
We spent
the next couple of days exploring the inlet, kayaking to the base of the
waterfalls, watching eagles hunting and devouring their prey, and bears feeding
on the shore and just sitting there taking in the amazing view. It was also
Jude’s birthday which we celebrated in very modest fashion, decorating the boat
and toasting to her good health with a glass, or two, of tequila. Wilderness
birthday.
No comments:
Post a Comment