We timed
our departure to reach the narrows at slack water, which was around 1pm. There were
quite a few more ice bergs coming through the narrows as we approached. We waited
until they started to slow and then committed to our exit. No problems. Once through
we were greeted by thousands of small bergs clogging the bay which made our
transit slow and tedious.
We weaved
our way through the icebergs until we exited Endicott arm and into Stephens
passage where we raised the sails and had a great down-wind sail all the way
into Taku Harbour.
Expecting
the public dock to be full – reports that Taku is a popular due to its
proximity to Juneau – we were pleased to see that there was only one other boat
on the large dock. Great. A chance to get onto land after one week on the hook.
We tied up having moved onto the inside of the dock to get away from swell
entering the bay and went to explore this area steeped in history.
Tiger Olsen's old cabin |
Taku
used to be the site of a a Hundson Bay trading company fort, long since abandoned,
Taku then became the home to a canning
plant and was home to over 200 people which was also abandoned in the 20 century.
Slowly the place deteriorated and only a few residents remained including the
infamous “Tiger” Olsen, a local character who seems to have captured the minds
and hearts of locals for many decades. Over the next few days we met a few
people who had met Tiger and told us stories of this adventurer. We were very
kindly lent a book on Tiger which Jude and I read and enjoyed. He sounded like
an amazing fellow.
We walked
through the ruins of the old cannery and visited Tiger’s old cabin and felt the
stories of him coming to life.
As happened
a few times already we decided to stay a couple of days and explore this bay
further. The weather cleared and we met some more local people who gave us good
advice on where to go and some of the history of the area. We met Mary and her
90 year old father on their Nordic tug. Mary very kindly bought out the marine
atlas and imparted some of her knowledge on the west coast of Baranof island,
telling stories of storms out at sea in her 22 foot boat.
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