While Katya and the children
from Pesto and Coastal Drifter were having fun swimming in the exceedingly warm
water of the almost land locked bay of Puerto Escondido Jude and I prepared the
boat for the oncoming of Hurricane Blanca which had been graded as a cat 4
hurricane with winds exceeding 100mph. Its course was still not exactly certain
but it had a good chance of coming straight up the Baja peninsula and whatever
happens will give us strong winds and hopefully some rain (to wash the boat). We
just don’t know how strong the winds will be.
As I said earlier the bay is
almost land locked so even if the winds are high the waves will not be too bad
and the waves, or swell, can often be the most likely element that causes damage
to the boat as they put huge stresses on ground tackle as the boat rises and
falls with the wave. We set about clearing the decks and strapping down items
that might get blown away such as the kayaks on the cabin top although we did
not deflate the dinghy but left in on the arch. I tied three lines to the mooring;
one from each cleat on the bow and a third that went directly to the mooring
chain and back through the bow roller and lead to the mid cleats which is a
precaution in case either the mooring line broke or the primary bow lines
chaffed through. We had been told that the mooring itself was new and that it
was designed for boats over 100 feet in length. I had inspected as much of the
mooring as I could and it looked in very good condition. The backup system if
the mooring failed were our two large anchors and 450 feet of chain and 300
feet of 3 strand nylon rode. Let’s hope we don’t need those.
We still had a couple of days
before the storm would arrive as it was making its way up the coast of Baja so
we shared a taxi with some fellow cruisers and went into Loreto to do some
sight-seeing and get some provisions.
Loreto is a pretty little town
which dates back to 1697 when a Jesuit group established a mission which still
stands. The town has cobbled streets, a nice clean waterfront and some good
restaurants and shops. We spent the day meandering around town and Katya and I
each had a long overdue haircut. Not only was it nice to have our hair cut but
sitting in an air conditioned room was a treat.
Loreto Mission |
We stopped off at the local
supermarket for our provisioning before collecting our cruiser friends who had
made a trip to the dentist – ouch.
Hurricane Blanca closed in on
us and was downgraded to a tropical storm with winds predicted to be in excess
of 50 knots where we were. The skies darkened, the humidity rose and we waited
and waited. Slowly the winds picked up and were a steady 30 knots at 10pm with
gusts over 45 knots. We sailed around the mooring and we watched other boats
heal over in the gusts that streaked across the anchorage. Strangely enough
there was not much chatter on the VHF. I did call the boat nearest to us, Mary T, and asked if they were OK as the
skipper was on the bow of his boat setting a kellet. I watched as a gust
carrying a wall of water raced towards our boats, he looked up, saw it coming
and ducked just in time as the 50 knot gust hit him.
During the storm |
The winds continued through
the night and the next day slowly receding below 20 knots and then it went calm
and the sun came out. We did have some rain during the storm but not as much as
we expected but enough to clean the decks and wash off all the salt. All in all
the hurricane passed without too much ado. One small boat dragged and ended up
in the mangroves and another boat lost its dinghy (He found it the next morning
with its motor and fuel tank missing, with the steel securing chain having been
cut – some enterprising local out in the storm).
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