Butedale to Bishop Bay 23miles

The following morning we decided to explore Butedale some more and walked up to Butedale lake via the old power house, which houses a huge pelton wheel generator, once used to power the homes of over 500 people. The huge power plant is now hooked up to a single tiny 12v car alternator which gave Lou his only power, somewhat intermittently in believe. The power house is set above the river and raised on concrete pilings and is accessed by a rather rickety wooden bridge. It was great to go for a walk and stretch our legs, hikes seem few and far between in this part of the world and we are always nervous of bear, cougars and wolves. Most people who walk in these parts do so with a gun or at least bear (pepper spray). On our walk up to the lake we spotted wolf prints in the mud. These maybe the lone black wolf that Lou had told us about.

We said our goodbyes to Lou and set off for Bishop Bay and its legendary hot springs. We were looking forward to a bath and a couple of days without moving. The wind was light and behind us but as the days distance was only small we decided to raise the sails and make slow progress towards our destination. We were only going 3 knots but we enjoyed the sunshine and set a salmon fishing line out.

The nice chaps from the Royal Canadian Mounted Police

Katya at the helm of the RCMP launch

Hot springs cabin

View from the Hot Springs cabin - The bay and springs all to ourselves

As we rounded Tomkinson point we spotted a boat coming up behind us. This was the first boat we had seen in about 5 days. As it approached it became clear that it was a Royal Canadian Mounted Police pursuit vessel. They came alongside and asked us a few questions and told us to tie up at the dock in Bishop Bay where they would meet us. They took our lines at the dock and came aboard to check our passports and papers. They were very pleasant and let Katya sit at the helm of their boat whilst I took some photographs.  Not sure if that would happen in the USA?

Once the formalities were over with we dashed to have a look at the hot springs. We had it all to ourselves. The natural springs are covered with a hut and decorated by an assortment of fishing buoys and other nautical equipment. Each item carried the name of a vessel, their crew and a date of their visit. It gave the place a very homely atmosphere and very different to that of Eucott Hot springs which were far more rural. We washed off in the specially designated area and jumped in the lovely water. What heaven it was to have a soak, wash and overlook the magnificent bay with our boat safely tied to a dock which we can easily walk to. Yes this was a chance to stop over for a few days and enjoy the place.

We spent the remainder of the day and the following day fishing, reading having more soaks in the springs and yet more soaks in the hot springs. Our skin was wrinkled with all the soaking we had done. In the evening two small boats arrived with four gents on board. They had been out fishing and were spending the night here. They were very pleasant and we sat and chatted about fishing, talking about the area and where were the not to miss places to visit. They sat on the dock in the evening eating crab they had caught earlier in the day and having drinks and soaks in the hot springs. At one point a large Canadian Coast guard ship came into the bay, dropped anchor and ferried a few of their officers to the hot springs. We had seen the ship on our way around cape caution and will no doubt see it again on our travels.

Kynoch Inlet to Butedale 55nm.

 As we made our way back up the inlet taking the opportunity to stop and take photographs alongside some of the steep sided granite walls in hope the size of Sarita alongside these stone cliffs would give some perspective of the scale of the place.

We made our way up to the head of Mathieson channel and through the Narrows. The wind had built to about 20 knots and was on our bow as we went through the narrows, funneled by the topography of the landscape. As we rounded Mathieson point and headed south west the winds changed to come from a North east and we pleased to be able to raise the sails and cut the engine and go downwind through sheep passage. We headed north through Heikish Narrows and into Graham reach. 

Tied up in Butedale

Butedale dock

Butedale dock

The old cannery Butedale

Spring has arrived

The old power house

Wolf print

Lou and Tiger in Butedale

Butedale

All our photography stops in Kynoch inlet had delayed us and it was getting late we were not sure if Butedale was still open. The guide books were very vague. We might get there by 9pm and if it was closed then we would have to carry on to Bishops bay, another couple of hours further on. We rounded the corner and entered the small bay. Butedale was once a thriving fishing town and cannery in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s and was populated until as the 1980’s but it has fallen into amazing disrepair over the years and most of the buildings on and near the dock have crumbled into the water. There is however a caretaker insight – Lou Simineau – who greated us at the rather ram-shackled dock. We chatted for a while, had a beer and marveled at this ghost town.  We were very pleased to be able to tie up and not have to make another 3 hour journey to find a safe anchorage. Lou very kindly invited us into his house and showed us his artwork and giving a piece to Katya which now hangs in our salon on the boat. Lou told us stories of Spirit bears, wolves chasing deer, and wolverines and how somebody had recently bought Butedale and was going to start some renovations to the docks.

Troup Narrows to Kynoch Inlet -66nm

We are back in civilaization and an internet connection!

Another long day planned for our passage to Kynoch Inlet meant that we arose early. Getting up at 5am is not as bad as it sounds because it is getting light around 4.30am and the sun streams through the hatches above our heads for quite a gentle awakening. It beats an alarm clock for sure. The mornings are still very “fresh” with temperatures in single digits and some mornings close to freezing. Jude was very judicious, pardon the pun, and has bought us all hot water bottles so we climb into our bunks each night and have warm toes. We hope that as time passes the temperatures will climb although this could be offset by the increasing latitude we are achieving.   

Our early departure was thwarted a bit by dense fog. I turned on the radar but decided that given the large number of islands, shoal areas and rocks we should wait a bit and see if the fog lifted sure enough 45 minutes later the fog started to lift and a beautiful sunny day revealed itself.

The wind was not sufficient to sail so we motored down Return channel and into Seaforth and then decided to head north up Reid Passage rather than going around Rankin Point. Reid Passage is a narrow channel that is relatively easy to navigate. Once through Reid Passgage we went through Perceval Narrows which were flooding and carried us through with an extra 4 knots over ground. There were a few large whirlpools and overflows which we avoided. Once through the narrows we set course for the long trip up Mathieson Channel which at its north end runs along the eastern shore of Pooley Island, known apparently for Spirit Bears, a rare white bear which there are apparently only about 400-500 in existence. We followed the shoreline hoping to see one. We decided to call into James Bay to see if is a place worth a visit but it did not offer a good anchorage and still had scars from logging operations. We went to the head of the bay to see if we could see some bears. No luck but we did see hundreds of seals waiting at the mouth of the river. Presumably waiting for returning salmon?

Kynoch Inlet

Check out the the size of Sarita  - bottom right

We continued up Mathieson channel and just at the entrance of Kynoch Inlet on the Northern side was the wonderful Kynoch falls. We lingered and tried to get close to the falls and took pictures before heading to our destination at the head of Kynoch Inlet. Kynoch Inlet is described as one of the jewels of British Columbia and I believe lives up to its reputation. High sided granite walls rise vertically from the depths of this glacial fijord. It is always hard to convey the scale of such places, photographs don’t seem to be able to achieve it either. We decided to poke our nose into Desbrisay Bay, a short inlet on the north side of Kynoch Inlet. it was a worthwhile detour as the scenery was again magnificent.

Granite wall rising vertically 3500 feet

 Kynoch made me feel so insignificant and slightly nervous. It seems so remote with only one real anchorage along its 10 mile length. You feel truly alone almost in some other primeval world. Waterfalls from spring snow melt throw white water down the sides of these mountains along its entire length. We were all transfixed at the beauty of this place and believe that it deserves its reputation as a jewel of BC.

Kynoch falls

We approached the head of the inlet where it shoals rapidly to mud flats and sought out the anchorage for the night. We immediately spotted a large grizzly bear on the headland of the east shore, just by the entrance to Culpepper lagoon. We watched him for a while before he decided to retreat into the forest having winded us. We dropped the anchor in 70 feet of water on the northern side of the inlet, the best we could find and dropped the dinghy into the water to go an explore Culpepper lagoon. It is possible to enter Culpepper lagoon in Sarita at high tide slack but we decided against it for a number of reasons: firstly high tide was around 9:30pm, it would mean waiting for the next high tide slack to exit and it looked bloody frightening going through its narrow and uncharted entrance. We shot through in the dinghy whilst the tide was still rising and saw large whirlpools and overfalls. Once through the lagoon opened up and we explored. Two dolphins were in the lagoon and raced towards us and darted under our bow a few times before continuing their hunt for food. Are they waiting for the salmon as well? We exited the lagoon whilst it was still flooding in and made slow progress against the inbound current. In the evening we fished off the side off the boat and caught a few rock sole for supper. Kynoch Inlet is certainly a great place to visit.

Prince Rupert Museum

Butedale

Wonderful Butedale. Full of history.

Crab supper.

Onwards

Our departure time from the Octopus islands was to be dictated by slack water for the nearby Okisollo Channel rapids which were running faster than usual due to the full moon spring tide the night before our departure. Passing through the rapids at anything other than true slack could mean disaster, according to the pilot books. We naturally decided to heed their warnings and departed the islands at a relatively late 9:30 am. Late because we our intentions were to try and get to Port Harvey about half way up Johnstone Strait. The trouble with having to wait for slack water through Okisollo channel is that firstly it makes the day shorter for our long journey but combined with flood spring tides we could be facing strong currents against us most of the way. The only alternative would be to wait for a few days until slack water coincides with an ebb current in the morning or take the long way around through Dent rapids which could be even worse. We had to go and suffer along day. The days forecast was for favorable southerly winds pushing us along the strait.

We transited the rapids safely and worked the back eddies along the shore and down to Discovery passage and then up into Johnstone strait. We lost about 0.5-1.0 knots with the current. All was not too bad, that is until we came to a waist in the channel where Chancellor Channel meets Johnstone Strait, slightly east of Helmcken Island, still working the back eddies we were making good speed until we entered the bowl. The water seemed to be boiling. The engine was on and we were doing 7 knots through the water but only 1.5 over ground. That’s 5.5 knots of current against us. We very slowly made our way towards Helmcken Island where we decided to wait out the tide in Billygoat Bay. A wise choice I believe. We ate and had cups of tea and at 4:30pm we headed out again. The tide was now with us and the winds had built to 25-30knots slightly forward of the beam. Up came the sails for a lumpy sail in heavy chop and boiling water. We decided that it would be prudent to shorten our journey and stop in Port Neville instead of Port Harvey. We were very pleased we did. Once we rounded the headland the winds died down and we pulled up alongside the single government dock in front of the historic Port Neville store and post office which closed back in the ‘60s. We tied up and went to stretch our legs and have a look at the old store which was being looked after by an elderly couple.   We prepared for an early departure and had a very peaceful night’s sleep.

The following morning we arose at 5:30am and were out in the Johnstone Strait again by 6:10am. This time it was quiet. We still had current with us and we were making good progress towards Port Mc Neill where we would be performing our last provisioning before reaching Prince Rupert in a few weeks time.

We had been to Port McNeill last year on our trip through the Broughtons and remembered the shops to have a good choice. The following day we stocked up on all our essentials and non essential “treats” that one can buy in Canada and not in the USA.

Our intention was to leave the following morning for Blunden Harbour, 25 miles across the Queen Charoltte Strait to the mainland. Unfortunately the forecast was for strong winds so we decided to wait for the slightly lighter winds the day after. As it turned out the winds would have been perfect for our crossing.

We departed for Blunden harbor early in the morning. (It seems to be getting a bit of a habit getting up at 5:30am). As we moved north of Malcolm Island the winds built to 15-20 knots. We hoisted the sails and turned the engine off. We could not make a direct passage to Blunden but had to beat our way there but that was OK as we had plenty of time. The winds continued to build and we had 25-30 knots true. It was a little choppy and we had some of the first ocean swell we have experienced for quite some time coming in off Queen Charlotte sound.

We arrived in Blunden harbor, dropped the hook and had another peaceful night at anchor. This is the point at which the journey starts to get more remote. The nearest town from now on is Shearwater which on our plan we would not reach for another week. We also had to do the first bit of open water to Fitz Hugh sound. We were looking forward to it but also a bit nervous about it as it’s been a while since we have left the protected waters of the inside passage.

Our plan was to stay in Blunden harbor for another day and explore the area but listening to the forecast we heard that 25-30 knot southeasterly winds were forecast for the following day so we decided to make the most of these favorable winds and departed again early the next morning with the ebb tide. We had a wonderful sail and were making good speed - 8 knots over ground with just a heavily reefed headsail. It started to get choppy from the outflow of Slingsby channel and even choppier around Cape Caution. I think the girls had had enough. The visibility was deteriorating with the rain and we were pleased to head into Smith inlet and the lee of the wind and towards Millbroook cove. We dropped anchor in the rain and put the kettle on.

Dsulish Bay

Millbrook cove was just an overnight stopping point so we departed the next morning for Fury cove on Penrose Island, SE on Fitz Hugh Sound. Before we exited west out of Smith Sound we headed about 2 miles east to Dsulish Bay where it is reported that sometimes bear, cougar and puffins hang out on a pristine beach. We dropped the anchor in 40ft of water, the sun came out and we had breakfast whilst eagerly awaiting the arrival of the wildlife. Nothing appeared so we headed out of Smith Sound, through Irving passage and North to Rivers Inlet and Fitz Hugh Sound. The waters were very choppy and the 3m ocean swell made for a bit of a rocky ride. Once we rounded the headland we put the sails up which steadied our movement, cut the engine and had a wonderful beam reach sail all the way to the entrance of fury cove.

 

Smith Inlet looking east

Fury Cove

Fury Cove

Fury Cove is one of those anchorages that makes your heart beat faster when you enter, faster that is with excitement and amazement at the beauty and protection of the place. The cove looked west out onto Fitz Hugh whilst offering good protection. White beaches on the surrounding islands beckoned to be explored. We rowed over to the islands stretched our legs and explored the islands where we found a wooden hut that looks like it is used occasionally. 

The beautiful Passing Cloud came into the anchorage the following day and we admired its looks.

 

Passing Cloud

Cabin on Fury Island

We decided that we would have a long journey the following day and go straight up to Eucott Bay where some natural hot springs were reported to be. The journey was over 70 miles so we expected a long day. SE winds of 25knots were reported so we might be lucky and get to sail. From now on the sailing is likely to be less frequent. The winds tend to go straight up or straight down the inlets so they are either on your nose of behind you. The motor is likely to get more use now. The SE winds never eventuated and we had rater a monotonous journey up to Eucott Bay which is on the upper north side of Dean Channel. The entrance to the bay is through a dog leg where it rapidly shoals from over 300 feet to single digits. We were entering on high tide (13ft) and at one point we only showed 10ft below us. The chart showed 6ft at low tide. Note to self to exit on a high tide and try a different exit route closer to the cliff on the SE side.

Again we were immediately awestruck by the bays beauty. High rising snow covered peaks all around us. Grassy areas at the waters edge on the north sides and we saw our first bear of the trip!

We anchored in 21 foot of water near the hot springs and put the dinghy in the water to go and try and get a peek at the bear we had seen earlier before going for our much needed hot spring bath. We could not find the bear we had seen earlier but were rewarded with a sighting of another black bear on the NE shore. We approached to within 300 meters and watched as the bear grazed and rolled about in the grass. We all had big smiles on our faces.

The bear slowly wandered off back into the forest and we made our way to the hot springs ½ a mile away.  The hot springs certainly did not disappoint. The temperature was perfect, the view was outstanding and the weather allowed us to enjoy a wonderful hot bath in the majestic surroundings. Again not another sole around for miles.           

The following morning we caught the high tide at 6:40am to exit Eucott Bay and head south to Troup Narrows. Again it was a motoring day and it was raining. At the confluence of Roscoe Inlet and Johnson Channel the visability deteriorated and Jude was on bow watch as we entered the anchorage at a snail’s pace. We dropped the anchor in 45ft of water and the fog started to lift and expose yet another beautiful anchorage. (I am not sure how I am going to overcome sounding repetitive with my descriptions of all the wonderful anchorages. Each one seems to be so amazing).

Whilst Katya caught up on some schoolwork I went and dropped the crab trap in the water and went for a kayak. In the evening I took the dinghy out to the opening of the anchorage and sat fishing for about an hour whilst feeling a little insignificant in this huge landscape. I managed to catch a rock sole for supper and the crab trap yielded a very large Dungeness crab. We sat eating the fish whilst washing it down with beer. The fish remains went back in the crab trap to be left overnight. Our expectations were high.

We awoke to a sunny morning and not as cold as it has been over the past few days. In Eucott Bay it got down to 1 degree Celsius overnight and only 8 degrees in the cabin in the morning. No heating necessary and the kettle was on before we went to check the crab pot. Our expectations were not to be let down. The crab trap yielded another 3 very large specimens and Jude quickly cooked them up whilst we ate the crab from the previous evening.     

SMS from 881641466545@msg.iridium.com

now in fury cove had some great sailing. weather great

The way we like it. Just the headsail up

Blunden Harbor

Departed Port McNeill at midday and sailed all the way to Blunden Harbor. It was to wind again so we had to beat our way there with 17-25 knot true winds. Sunny. Great fun.


We were going to stay here tomorrow but they are forecasting 25-30 knots from the south east which would make a better sail for us than the usual North west winds so we will make the most of the south winds to pass Cape Caution.

Richard

Blunden Harbor