We had a choice to make: we either leave in the dark and
arrive in the light or leave in the light and arrive in the dark, we opted to
leave early so that we could anchor safely. So it was we dropped the mooring
line off the buoy at 3.45 am in pitch darkness. The radar was on and I could
not see a thing around us. I have to say it was a bit of a nerve-wracking
experience. You have to trust your instruments – compass – GPS and radar to
give you the heading. At first I only trusted by sense of direction which told
me I was going in a circle, which I was not, we were within 80ft of the shore
and I decided that I had to trust the instruments. To make matters worse the
channel leading out to Hecate Strait has strong currents and these were playing
havoc with our course over ground, at some times we were heading one way but
our course was 40-50 degrees in another direction. I put my trust in the
autopilot and thank God it was working. I think that has been the scariest
moment so far. Pitch blackness, strong currents and rocks and islands all
around us.
Once we were in open water we started to relax. We looked
outside and saw the strong phosphorescence coming off the bow wave. It was not long before it started to get
lighter, land was fading into fog behind us and the sea stretched out infront
of us, over 100 miles of open water. We had hoped for some wind to help us but
there was only 5-10 knots behind us which would not be must use to we motored.
The sea was quite lumpy especially as we crossed the North Bank where the
waters rose to a few hundred feet and the waves climbed to around 6 feet.
Sea birds circled us. Shearwaters, black footed Albatross
and we even saw some crested Puffins, one of my favorite animals on the trip.
They look like some Ancient Chinese opera performers with their bright colours
and flowing crests.
60 miles into the journey a small yellow bird circled our
boat, then vanished. 2 minutes later it came back and landed on deck, walked
around inspecting the boat and flew off again. 5 minutes later it was back this
time it was clearly looking for a way to get into the cockpit. We obliged and
opened a panel in the covers and after a few failed attempts the small fluffy
bird came in to the cockpit and started looking around. He found a place under
Jude’s shoe and tucked his head under his wing and went to sleep. He was
clearly exhausted. He looked like a land bird that had lost his way. We gave
him some water and found some dead flies which he ate out of our hands. He flew
down the companion way steps and slept for a while. Jude went downstairs and
made a nest for him which he jumped into and went to sleep again. An hour or so
later Jude checked on him and he had died with his head under his wing. He must
have been lost and exhausted. We were pleased that he had died not in the wing
but having had a rest, food and water. It is a shame he did not live for a few
hours longer to see land.
We motored onwards, the wind staying light until we neared
Calvert island so we raised the sails for a bit of relief from the engine. Jude
and Katya spotted a blue shark following us, with its distinctive long tail.
There were droves of fishermen out as we approached Calvert Island, these are
supposed to be some of the most productive salmon waters along the coast. We weaved
our way through the islands and into Pruth Harbour where there were about 7
other boats, by far the most we had seen for quite some time. It was great to
arrive after the long passage but it seemed strange to have so many other
people about.
5-6th
August. Pruth Harbour.
We spent the next couple of days exploring the wonderful
sandy beaches of Calvert Island. There is an Institute, I believe it used to be
a resort, on the island and they offer free internet so it was great to catch
up on some news although it was not that great for uploading updates to this
site. We stretched our legs on the beaches, collecting various flotsam and
jetsam. We gave Lellow, the small yellow bird a burial near the beach and met
up with some great people. Katya made a friend and went over to her boat to
socialize and we had them over for a pizza night and drinks. Mark, Catherine,
Dominique on Crossroads.
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