Saturday, April 9, 2016

The Passage to the Marquesas Islands



We raised the anchor in La Cruz at around noon on the 14th March having waited for the afternoon thermal to build in the bay that would give us some wind to get to the ocean winds. We had a combination of feelings: sadness at leaving friends and Mexico behind us, nervousness about our first long distance Ocean passage and excitement about the new experiences ahead but it was good to be on our way after many months of preparations.
The passage is almost exactly 2700 nautical miles from La Cruz to Hiva Oa in the Marquesas and if we are lucky we might get close to that number but it all depends on where the winds are and how much tacking and jybing we have to do along the way which will lengthen our trip. I had engaged the services of Bob McDavitt, a New Zealand Weather router, who would provide his thoughts on the best route to the islands to maximize the winds and to provide a backup if any nasty weather arose which we might not pick up on.  Having studied the route and the weather patterns along the way I had mentally split the trip into 4 sections: The first section was to get offshore through the light wind areas that are effected by the Pacific High pressure systems and to the NE trade winds that blow constantly nearer the equator. The second section is to sail through the NE trade winds to a point SW of our departure point at which we will cross the lighter wind section of the ITCZ (Inter Tropical Convergence one). The third section is crossing the lighter winds of the ITCZ to another chosen point where one hopes to pick up the SE trade winds that run south of the equator then the final section being the SE trade wind run to our destination. Sounds simple but there is a lot of guesswork and hope that the route that has been chosen has enough wind but not too much wind. Each section has its own idiosyncrasies.

Section 1. to The NE Trades.  

The weather for this section of the journey is dominated by the effects of the Pacific High pressure system which at this time of the year is trying to establish itself, develop and generally move northwards. The Pacific high dominates the weather pattern for pretty much the whole of the west coast of the United states and northern Mexico in the spring and summer and once established provides north to north east winds. The theory goes that when the Pac High establishes you take the N/NE winds and use them to drive you south west to reach the NE trade winds that run along the northern equator but there are a couple of things to think about and the main item being the effect of land and the systems which develop over it often sucking any wind out of the Pac High and then there is the guessing if the high has actually established or is it just a temporary build up of high pressure. Some people like to wait until late March / early April before they depart ensuring a higher chance of getting winds whilst others leave earlier taking a chance with the desire to have more time in the Marquesas Islands and beyond. We fall into the later camp. 

We studied the weather files on ZYGRIB and it looked like there was a weather window developing for Monday the 14th March. It was less than ideal with an area of low winds showing up after a few days that might mean we would be wallowing about for days but we decided to take a chance as there would be no guarantee that a week later or even two weeks later it would be any better.

We said our goodbyes to all our friends in La Cruz, most of whom we would not see again and some we would be meeting up in a few weeks. We vacated the slip that we had been in for some 3 months and moved out to the anchorage so that we could get some acclimatization to the movement of the boat and do the last minute preparations before heading offshore. I studied the weather one last time and made the decision that we would be leaving tomorrow. 

All our provisions were safely stowed and other items tied down so as not to be thrown about by the movement of the boat on the crossing. We raised the dinghy on to the foredeck and lashed it down and double secured the kayaks, which are on the cabin tops.

D-Day had arrived and we waited for the thermal build-up of winds in Banderas bay to occur which would enable us to get out of this beautiful bay and like clockwork it occurred at midday. Alison and the boys from Kanta Anae rowed out to us to say goodbye which was a lovely gesture and much appreciated. We raised the anchor, set the sails and headed down the bay. After about 4 miles the winds developed nicely on the beam and we set a course for our first waypoint. We were doing 6.5 knots and we all had smiles on our faces.

We sailed into our first night with a quarter waxing moon, calm seas and Jude and I started our 3 hrs on 3hr off watch. By dawn we had covered 157 miles the winds were lighter and we had 13 squid on deck and 10 flying fish.

By mile 345 we were in the light wind zone predicted by the Grib files and we were pretty much stationary. We waited to see if the winds picked up but they did not. An amazing sunset wowed us all.
 
 
The winds were still light to non-existent in the morning so we decided to use some of our fuel quota. Before we left I decided to allocate an amount of fuel to each section of the journey so that we don’t use too much on this journey. For each leg we allocated 25 hrs and we would have approx 15 hrs in reserve.

For the next couple of days the winds were 7-10 knots from the north to north west keeping our apparent wind forward of the beam and speed 6knots plus. Boobies, of the bird variety, tried to land on our mast and a couple successfully hitched a ride with us on our solar panels.

By the 19th March, 5 days after leaving La Cruz I believe we found the NE trade winds. We had covered about 700 miles 140 of which were under motor, pretty much as predicted.

Section 2    
NE Trade wind section

The winds and seas were steady from the North to North east 12-15 Knots but the seas were confused, no nice rolling ocean swell at 15 seconds. This made the sailing a little frustrating as aiming to sail downwind (SW) the sails flogged with the wind angle greater than 150 degrees so we decided to head a little west to keep wind in the sails and stop the annoying flogging of the main and head sail. We tried just a poled out Genoa but still the sail flogged. By sailing more west we would add more miles to the journey.

Over the next couple of days the winds built and so did the seas. A steady 20 knots, 25 knots and 10-15 foot confused seas made for quite an uncomfortable ride. We reefed the sails to add a bit of control. As we approached the evening of the 21st we saw a large dark gray cloud ahead of us. We prepared for rain. As we entered the cloud it was like entering a different world, the visibility diminished, the winds increased and the seas became larger and more turbulent. We reduced sail again. We waited to exit the cloud but for the next three days we were locked in this alternate world. You know when you are at the top of a tall building people tell you not to look down, well people should say to sailors in rough weather don’t look behind you in following seas. When looking back in these conditions I compared it to looking to the top of a mogul hill. How could it seem up-hill? The water was white with streaks cascading down, seas came from behind and on our quarter, waves seemingly trying to reach into the cockpit like desperate white hands. Several times we had waves board the boat and water came into the cockpit. We had the weather boards in the companion way so as to prevent water going into the cabin. We surfed down the waves and at one point reaching a new all-time record for Sarita of 12.6 knots. (last record was 10.6 knots heading under the Bay bridge into San Francisco in 2011) Sometimes the angle was such that we slid sideways down the wave and at the bottom we hit waves and water covered our aft deck. Through all this the rain came down and the light was poor. Quite “exciting”. I have to award Jude a medal for her actions during these few days as she went on as usual and at one point as we were side-sliding down one of these steep 20 foot waves I looked down below and saw here making a vegetable soup from scratch, frying vegetables. Quite remarkable. Through all this Amber and Katya chatted away, watched movies and listened to music, almost oblivious to what was going on around us.    

We eventually came out of this other world on the evening of the 23rd. The winds lightened to 14 knots and we saw blue skies. We sighed with relief and so did Geeves, our autopilot who stopped working as if saying I have had enough. Jude and I looked at each other as I took over the steering thinking that we were under half way and the prospect of hand steering 24hrs a day in weather like we just had was not a great thought but we had no choice, going back was not an option. We tried to continue our three hour watches but Jude found that 3 hrs was too hard, and so did I, so we reduced the watches to 1 hr on 1 hr off.  Geeves! Geeves! Come back please we will not be so hard on you.

In my off watch time I tried to fix the head unit of the autopilot but it seems that water managed to enter the unit and create a short. I emailed friends back in La Cruz to see if they could find a work around from the manufacturer and order a replacement for our arrival in the Marquesas. It’s great to have some wonderful people trying to help.

We continued on, exhausted particularly on the night watches, sometimes it was almost impossible to wake up after only an hour of sleep to resume duties but on we had to go. In the end we decided to heave to (stop sailing) and get 4 hours of sleep before resuming. The prospect of continuing this for another 3 weeks was not something I wanted to think about. We hoped that we would not have to go through another gale at night as this would be very hard to manage.  In our off watches, only an hour at a time, we continued our other duties, Jude keeping us fed and watered, me downloading weather, keeping the batteries charged and making water.  

By the evening of the 26th I believe we had reached the northern limit of the next section, crossing the ITCZ and it was time to head more south having been heading more west up until this point.

Section 3 – Crossing the ITCZ to reach the SE Trade winds.

This section was one I was not particularly looking forward to as predictions were for light to variable winds, making for slower progress when we really wanted to get to our destination, and this area is known for its squalls which bring heavy rain and high winds. Great! Just what we need, a greater challenge.

On the afternoon of the 27th we hit our first squall. We saw it on the horizon, turned the radar on and saw it was about 5 miles wide and about 20 miles long. We tried to wait and go around it but it soon engulfed us. Winds built to 35knots, rain lashed down and the seas built becoming streaked with white water. I put my foul weather gear on and, the rest of the crew went below and we put all the weather boards in the companion way to prevent water entering the cabin. We ran as much across the waves trying to escape the system, we had a shred of head sail out but were still making 7 knots. It was quite exciting and if I was not concerned that this might last through the night and another day I would have enjoyed it but being exhausted the prospect of hand steering for 12hrs straight was daunting to say the least. Thankfully our first major squall lasted about one hour before we popped out into the dwindling light of dusk, the winds lightened and the seas almost immediately calmed. We continued sailing until 4am when we hove-to for 4 hours to catch up on sleep.

The following day the winds lightened for the first time in quite a while, a sure sign we were in the ITCZ. I downloaded the weather files and they did not look encouraging, light winds all the way to the Marquesas. Could our passage extend to over thirty days? Possibly especially if we heave-to every night to catch up on sleep.
I decided that as we were pretty sure we were in the ITCZ or the doldrums we could start using our next quota of fuel so when the winds were below 4 knots we motored to find wind. Most of the time we found some wind in an hour or two and started sailing again. We encountered a few more squalls which we picked up on the radar and were more confident of our abilities for each new one we encountered but still we hoped not to encounter on in the dead of night.

On the 31st March we crossed the equator a major physical and mental milestone for us. The mental one being the more important as this signaled an approach to the final leg of the trade winds. We toasted Neptune with a bottle of bubbly, the girls dressed up in home made masks and made me a crown. It was a beautiful day, with light winds but we were making good speed in calm seas. Over the next couple of days we drifted, sailed and did a bit of motoring.

Section 4 – The SE Trades to our destination.

The weather files still looked depressing – light winds of less than 10 knots aft the beam all the way to the Marquesas for the foreseeable future but by the evening of the 1st April the SE winds started to build and with them a current of up to 2 knots with us! With the wind on our beam we started to make good progress although at times the seas were very confused with a large cross swell knocking us sideways every few minutes. During the day these were OK as we could see them coming but at night they surprised us. At the start of our hand steering we found night sailing particularly difficult, how to keep a course. Sound easy right, focus ahead, follow a star or a cloud but when the skies are black and nothing can be seen, Jude and I found that our brains told us we were spinning in circles. Add sloppy, rolling seas to this and it made it really frustrating and exhausting. It took a while to master a technique but we ended up pretty much using the compass and checking our heading every few minutes. If there were stars to follow then great but quite often they vanished behind clouds and we were back to the compass. Getting comfortable when hand steering was also hard, we each had our own positions and methods to make our watch more comfortable.
Slowly the seas became more stable and the winds more steady but still we had squalls with heavy rain and winds up to 30knots but we could see these coming on the radar and we prepared for their arrival.

As the winds lightened and the seas became more stable Amber was able to help us on more of the watches and what a godsend that was. Suddenly we had two hours off several times a day and eventually Amber shared a couple of night watches.

Different milestones were important to the moral of everybody, we wanted this trip over. Every 100 miles was celebrated and when the Distance to destination fell below 1,000 miles then 500 miles our spirits lifted.

On the evening of the 6th April, as the sun set we finally spotted land away in the distance, not our destination but of Hiva Oa but it still signaled that the end of this leg of the journey was in sight. We decided that we would all sail through the night and not heave to and sleep, we knew we would be exhausted on arrival but we would be able to sleep. As darkness fell the chartplotter teasingly showed us that we would be arriving in 14 hours time, that was just 4 watches each, but as darkness fell so did the winds and our speed, the time to our arrival extending as the small hours of the night approached. 14 hrs hung there through the night. With dawn came the sight of our destination Fatu Hiva, the most majestic and welcoming sight I have ever seen. We knew we could rest, stand upright, have a cold beer, gin and tonic eat normally and step on land.

At just after 12pm La Cruz time, 7:30am local time we dropped the anchor on Fatu Hiva having circled the anchorage to find a suitable spot that was not too deep. We celebrated, laughed, hugged each other and congratulated each other on reaching our destination. 3014 nautical miles in 24 days.

If I had been told before we had departed that we would have to hand steer the boat over 1700 miles in challenging conditions, there would have been no hesitation in deciding not to leave but now I am almost glad we did it. We have all learnt so much, not only sailing but what we can take. Not once did our tempers fray, yes we had many moments or exhaustion and despair at the task ahead but we remained positive and got on with the job. I can now berate myself for not having a spare autopilot system. Its not that I did not think about buying one, I have done so many times over the past few years but I could not bring myself to pay the $5,000 plus for a complete new system. Now of course I would have gladly paid that price plus more, and I probably will have to as the cost of getting a new system out to one of the remotest islands in the world does not come cheaply. Lesson learned.

Now we can enjoy this wonderful paradise which from first sight is beyond comprehension and explanation but that will come later for now I will be drink, be merry and SLEEP, oh will I sleep!               

In summary.
The planned route was for 2710 nautical miles but we ended up doing 3014 nautical miles. Some of this extra mileage is due to a change of plan and wanting to head more west before crossing the ITCZ as it appeared to be narrower but also wanting to stay in the NE trades longer rather than the variable winds and squall zone just north of the equator. We also decided not to sail directly downwind as the sails flogged badly in the high seas so we had to jybe our way down the course line. I believe that some of the extra distance should be attributed to our hand steering as we found it almost impossible to stay within 5 degrees of the course so we made a continuous “S” course along the route, perhaps adding 10-15% of distance. Our overall time was extended mainly due to our heaving-to each night to get some sleep but also to our action of having reduced sail most of the way after Geeves failed so as to reduce the effort to steer the boat. 

I think the weather and seas conditions were a little different than expected. The NE trades were not the nice downwind sleigh ride we had been led to believe but the seas were confused and uncomfortable. The ITCZ section was pretty much as predicted and if anything much fewer light winds but we must have been lucky. The SE trade wind section was so much better than the NE trade wind section, although there were some contrary seas at the beginning the winds were more steady, as predicted 15knots and more on the beam than aft the beam making for a more comfortable direct sail.

Friday, April 8, 2016

Landfall

We are pleased to announce that as or 17:24 UTC we made landfall in Fatu Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia. 10.27S 138.40W. We sailed through the night and at dawn the light revealed our wonderful destination ahead of us, the most majestic sight I have ever seen. After 3014 nautical miles in 23 days, 23 hrs and 24 minutes at sea it is great to drop the anchor, be able to stand straight and enjoy a cooling swim in these wonderful waters. More on our arrival later but for now we need to sleep, drink and be merry.

Monday, April 4, 2016

(no subject)

Day 21. Position 04.00S 133.59W. We are hopefully out of the doldrums having only motored for two half days, or 24 hrs in total, which is pretty lucky I think. All the forecasts have shown for light winds of 7 knots or less for this next part of the passage but for the past three days we have seen 10-15 knots right on the beam which make for great sailing conditions to cover some ground. To help that we also have a knot of current going with us and at times we have made 9 knots, speed over ground. We are just hoping that these winds will last all the way to the Islands which are now less than 450 nautical miles away. Despite the improving sailing conditions we are still stopping overnight to get some rest so we are doing 1 hr on 1 hr off from about 7am until 2-4am then heaving-to for 3-5 hours. Since the conditions have improved Amber has been helping us on some of the watches and this now means that we can get 2 hours off which is amazing, we can sleep. The fresh food has pretty much gone but Jude had pre prepared some great meal before we left and we are consuming those before we head on to the tinned foods but we might be lucky enough to make land fall. Looking forward to smelling land and not the inside of a hot, sticky and sweaty boat which smells like the boys locker room at school.

Sunday, April 3, 2016

(no subject)

Day 18. Yesterday was a bit of a milestone for as as we crossed the equator into the southern hemisphere and we enter another phase of the journey, that of light winds. We have had everything so far: perfect conditions, downwind sailing, upwind sailing, sailing in gales, squalls and now we have the light wind section. It is a little frustrating, sometimes enough wind to make good speed in the right direction and then it changes to poor speed in the wrong direction. Difficult choices then have to be made, do we sail on in the slightly wrong direction or do we pull everything down and drift? Either way this section is probably going to be the longest in time, possibly 10 days or more to cover the final 750 miles.

Jude was on the helm yesterday and I was lying down in the cockpit looking at our trail. I decided to change the fishing lure which had been on the line for over a week with no success. I put on the Mexican Flag lure, known to be effective and then sat back and watched it skip across the surface. Within a couple of minutes I thought I saw a black fin come up behind it and then drop down again, then it came up again. Clearly something was stalking the lure. I thought it was a tuna and went to the rod and eased it forward and then dropped the line back in a hope to drop it back into the mouth of the fish. Sure enough the fish took the bait. Well did that real scream or what as the line went out at a blistering rate. I put some more torque on the reel to slow the line going out but still it went and then the fish, which I knew was big, leapt out of the water, it was a Marlin and probably 200-300 lbs if not more. It leapt into the air several times trying to dislodge the hook. I had no chance. This rod was my Alaskan salmon rod with 80 test line and it snapped the second time the Marlin performed its aerobatics. We watched the Marlin continue to leap into the air clearly relieved that it had escaped and to be honest so was I. Yes it would have been nice to have some fresh Marlin but there is no way we could have eaten or stored all of it and it would have been interesting getting a fish of that size onboard. Fun all the same.

Monday, March 28, 2016

(no subject)

After Geeves's abandonment of autopilot duties our schedule has changed somewhat, we not only find that hand steering the boat during the day in winds of 20-25kts is quite tiring but at night it is a real challenge. We had hoped that the bright moon would provide us some visual reference from which to steer but not only is the moon not rising until late the skies are pretty much clouded over. By midnight we are usually exhausted and starting to make mistakes or not being able to steer a true course so we have taken to heaving-to until the moon provides some benefit and we have caught up on some sleep. This does however mean that we are losing valuable progress towards our destination and will add several days to our crossing time. Pretty much as soon as we crossed over the 4 degrees latitude mark and into the ITCZ we saw our first ominous looking cloud system that stretched across the horizon. I had a look at the radar and sure enough it showed up as a dense red strip some 12 miles long and 4 miles wide. We decided to try and track around it but it moved too fast. Within an hour we were in some of the heaviest rain I have seen and winds steady at 30kts gusting to 40kts. The seas built quickly and were white with streaks and crests. We ran with the wind on our quarter with barely a handkerchief of head sail out and were doing 8 knots. We had put the boards in the companion way in case we had any breaking waves and we were glad we had as we several times we had water over our beam and stern. During this chaos I saw a pod of dolphins leaping high into the air, clearly enjoying the chaos. All this lasted about an hour and a half after which we were exhausted and it was dark so we decided to heave-to again and check the radar for any further approaching systems overnight.

Saturday, March 26, 2016

(no subject)

Day 12 into our Journey. The good news is that we are just past the half way mark! and the bad news is that Geeves, our autopilot gave up three days ago so now we have to hand steer the Sarita the rest of the way, this means 1 hour on 1 hour off shifts 24 hrs a day for the next 10-12 days. Geeves failed after steering us through a 3 day gale with 15-20ft waves and 35knot sustained winds, driving rain and confused seas. I think it was all too much for him. All is well though and we are making progress to our destination where i can assure you I will be looking forward to a Gin and Tonic and a good nights sleep. Thanks to all in La Cruz who are trying to find us a replacement Geeves (Simrad AP20).

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Sunday, March 20, 2016

(no subject)

Its a long way to the Taco stand.

Its been over six days since we left Mexico and we have traveled 800 nautical miles, not as many as we had hoped for but the winds have been quite light but on the bright side its been an extremely relaxing crossing so far. When I look at our position on the world map our little dot in the middle of the Ocean looks really quite insignificant, nothing for hundreds even thousands of miles. We unanimously agreed today that it does not feel like over 6 days since we left but more like 3 days and we passed the 1/4 way mark.

You would think that you would get pretty tired of looking at the ocean each day but its surprisingly captivating. Every day seems to be different in some way: The colour of the water changes, the waves and their effect on the boat, the small amount of wildlife but each day is punctuated with something special. On our first night we had 14 squid throw themselves on deck along with a number of flying fish. This morning we had three stowaways sitting on the solar panels, not sure what birds they were but maybe a boobie variety.

The sailing has been fun and is challenging me to get the best boat speed and direction from the light winds. We hauled out the spinnaker this morning and it was great to be moving along effortlessly in light winds. The spinnaker pole was used to keep the genoa from flogging but its a dangerous thing to set and take down in a swell, being so heavy.

The girls are doing very well Katya has been doing her schoolwork and reading and Amber has been helping us sail and reading. Jude, as ever, has been making sure we are all extremely well fed and enduring the 3am-5am night watch. Signing off for now.

Thursday, March 17, 2016

(no subject)

Thursday 17th March. Position 16 degrees 18 minutes North 111 degrees 14 minutes west. Approx 440 miles covered. The winds died down to below five knots on Wednesday afternoon so we ran the engine for a few hours and took the sails down to prevent them flogging against the rigging. We floated about overnight rolling from one side to another as the swells passed us by waiting for the winds to pick up. By 9am in the morning the winds picked up to just over 5 knots allowing us to get going again. We had covered just over 5 miles overnight pulled along by the current. The winds died again and the seas became glassy so it was back to waiting around for winds. We spotted turtles slowly swimming by and were lucky enough to see a juvenile turtle and a leatherback turtle. Dolphins swam and performed around the boat in waters that are infeasible blue and clear, so much so that the dolphins look like they are swimming through air. Despite the light air today the past few days have been wonderful and great way to start the journey.

Wednesday, March 16, 2016

Passage update

We departed La Cruz Mexico at midday on the 14th March, raising the sails shortly after leaving and pointed Sarita towards the Marquesas islands, 2700 nautical miles away. The winds were in a perfect direction for us to sail out of the bay on a beam reach making over 8 knots with a bit of current to help us along. Now, two days after leaving, we have covered just over three hundred miles and the sight, sounds and smells of land well behind us. The conditions have been absolutely perfect with calm seas that will enable our stomachs to get used to the movement. Jude has been preparing delicious meals and we have been getting as much sleep as we need. All is well onboard.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Saturday, March 12, 2016

Adios Mejico. Te amamos!



Eric and Meagan
We cannot believe that it has been 16 months since we first arrived in Mexico and over that time our opinion of the country has changed significantly. The stories of crime and the unscrupulous I am sure exist but we have met nothing but lovely, friendly, fun-loving people on our travels who will go out of their way to help you. The countryside that we have seen is spectacular, from the arid desert landscapes of the Baja peninsula to the spectacular high mountains of the interior and back down to the tropical jungles of the mainland coast.

Kids science club on the dock
We could definitely stay here in Mexico longer and explore more of the southern and interior parts of this country but we have to depart on our epic adventure across the Pacific Ocean to Australia. I know that when we leave we will all shed a tear for the wonderful people we have met, both cruisers and locals. We have formed relationships that will last over the years and hope that many of these people will visit us in Australia or we might bump into them in another foreign port.

Kids Club smoothie making for the orphanage
The Pacific calling

Drying the fruit and veg after steralizing
Our final preparations for the crossing are complete. We have purchased enough food that should last us many months and every conceivable space of the boat is crammed with provisions. The task of provisioning, which is thankfully Jude’s responsibility, is a challenging one. How can you buy enough provisions to take you through the Pacific islands without going off? What items do you place space priority on? What items can you buy along the way and are they even financially viable? What is the best way to store the items to maximize their life-span. We only have limited space and even more limited fridge and freezer space so these decisions are important. We have garnered advice from seasoned cruisers and reading other cruisers blogs who have gone before us and we believe we have enough provisions to last us but you always want more.
A small part of our provisions



So we have checked out of Mexico with the officials from immigration and Customs boarding Sarita, stamping passports and checking the boat with dogs for drugs and stowaways. It was a painless task and the complete opposite of crossing the border into our out of the US. These people are human!

Now we are just watching the weather for departure out of the bay. The 2700 nautical mile journey is made up of 4 major legs, the first being the leg from Banderas bay to the NE trade winds. Winds are predicted to be light, somewhere in the 7-10 knot range on the beam so we will probably be flying the spinnaker until the winds exceed 10 knots. The second leg runs through the northern equator trade winds and we hope these are in the 15-20 knot range but as we near the equator we expect clouds and squalls to develop with possible thunder storms. The next leg is the tricky one and that is choosing a place to cross the ITCZ, inter tropical convergence zone, sometimes known as the doldrums which is an area potentially light winds and squalls. If we are lucky we might be able to motor across this section in a day but some boats have known to have taken 5 days. As we cross the equator we move into the 4 leg which sees the winds shifting to the south east and will hopefully take us to our first destination, the Marquesas islands, which are some of the remotest islands in the world. 

 
Our approximate route

We hope to provide short position reports as we cross but as this has to be done with a primitive short-wave radio and some clever technology they might be sporadic. You should be able to track our position as we cross by clicking the “where are we” link at the top right of the home page.