4th July. Independence day. Goddard Hot Springs to Toledo Harbor. 72 Miles

Cape Ommney

Our plan was to travel down the west coast of Baranof island, in the Pacific ocean to Puffin bay. The forecast was for 15-20kts from the north which would push us down. When we left the winds were light and the swell was around 4-5 feet and unfortunately the winds did not pick up but the swell did. We tried fishing and I lost my rod overboard. Silly for not tying it down whilst I left it. The journey was a bit uncomfortable and we were all looking forward to dropping the hook in Puffin bay. As we approached Puffin Bay a large Ketch was coming out, rising and falling in the high swell. The winds whistled down the inlet and at the head of the bay we saw white caps, willywars. Suddenly we were blasted by 40 knot winds. Perhaps this is why the ketch left. At the head of the inlet is a Evergreen cove, which is supposed to be sheltered. We entered and dropped the hook but we were swinging wildly and there was not that much swing room. Do we stay and risk an unsettled night or go back out and round the east coast of the island. We decided to carry on. So we continued on our way. The winds picked up as we neared Cape Ommaney marking the southern point of Baranof Island and as we rounded the island they were blowing at 30 knots but coming on the beam. So it was with pleases that we raised the sails which hardened the ride and had a wonderful sail. I was smiling at least. As we rounded the cape the seas died along with the wind to around 15 knots but still on the beam, the sun was shining. Oh this was fun. We were ripping along. 1 hour ago I was ready to drop the hook and get in my bunk, but now I wanted to sail until it got dark. Perfect sailing conditions. We decided to skip Port Alexander and head for a very small cove called Toledo Harbor. Toledo harbor is almost circular with a very narrow entrance flanked by kelp. You would not know it was there and without GPS it would be very hard to find. Once inside we dropped the hook in the middle. It was sheltered, quiet and we all relaxed and got the beers out. An exciting days sailing.  

1st July. Sitka to Goddard Hot Springs. 18 miles

We filled up with diesel before we headed out into the Pacific waters. The wind was blowing 15-20 from the north which looked promising for a downwind sail. Our Wind instrument was out of order. A Bald eagle had landed on the top of the mast and knocked off the wind vane. Luckily the missing part landed on deck and I would have to go up the mast to re attach it, but not until we go away from the eagles. The waters were a little lumpy and we saw a few fishing boats plying these salmon rich waters. We decided to anchor in the more protected Kliuchevoi Bay which although more protected has a tricky entrance. We entered the bay, dropped the hook in 30 feet of water and prepared to go ashore for the hot springs. Steve and Sandy took the Kayaks to the springs and the rest of us piled into the dingy and rowed ashore and then along the ½ mile trail to the hot springs. There are two wooden cabins with hot spring baths, one up the hill and one near the shore. The upper one was hotter than the lower one due to the tap being turned off. There was also an open pool with a sunken bath further up the trail. We waited for a couple to leave the upper cabin and then we went in. Katya and I went in the lower spring whilst it warmed up. The view from the cabins over the bay is spectacular. I walked back along the trail to check the dinghy and Steve and Sandy kayaked back to Sarita. Unfortunately Sandy slipped in the water as she was getting out of the Kayak and got a bit of a soaking. All OK though. I could hear Steve cursing as she went in.

2^nd  3^rd July. Godard Hot springs

We decided that the springs were too good to leave and decided to stay another two days for more soaking and exploring. I lost count of how many times I went to the hot tubs. How fantastic and relaxing they are, sitting there in sun or rain watch the world go by whilst having a soak in the mineral rich waters. We are all convinced that they do have a positive effect on the body. 

I went exploring in the Kayak to Crane cove. Saw some deer and stopped off on an unnamed island where I found a ¾ full bottle of Texan Vodka, the same brand as we had drunk with Josh and Natasha on their boat. Not only that but I found a set of car keys, a iPOD, in a rather drowned state, a pen knife and six  .306 shells, all lying together just on the high water mark. A mystery……

28th June. Kalinin Bay to Sitka 26 miles

We departed Kalinin bay at 9am and heard a “securite” call from the vessel Liseron who was entering the bay. Liseron is the vessel we were moored behind in Juneau. Alex, one of the crew was a personable chap and we waved as we passed on our way to Sitka. We made our way through Whitestone narrows and saw Arriba, a Motor yacht from our marina in Anacortes, they looked in a hurry.

29^th – 30^th June. Sitka

We were assigned our slip in Sitka and all went ashore to have showers, buy some provisions and have a general exploration of this interesting City. As we were walking into town we spotted Olympic Mist, Mike’s boat. We wondered if he was still here or had he already departed commercial fishing. Amber and Ben strolled into town with Steve and Sandy and I went in search of an oil filter so that I could change the oil in the engine when it would become due in a week or so.

Katya met up with the friends she had made in Kalinin bay, more provisioning, a visit to the Raptor center, a long afternoon at the laundry and another look around the city. Katya, Jude and Mike went to visit Kathleen Jo, another fishing boat who had a viewing tank and in the tank was an Abalone called Abalonely because he was all alone. Abalone used to be quite prolific along these shores but were over harvested and now the growing sea otter population is preventing them from re establishing. 

The harbor was bustling. There was a big opening (term used for by commercial fishermen allowing them to go and fish) The 58ft Seine netting boats were getting ready, buying provisions, fixing last minute problems, checking nets. The commercial trollers were also busy getting ready. We had not seen a dock so busy since we had been up in Alaska. As Jude and I were walking back from town we saw Mike’s familiar face strolling down the dock. It was good to see him. Katya would be pleased that she would see him before he headed out to go fishing. He told us that he would be working on Charity and would be leaving in a day or so. He invited us back to the boat to meet Tele, the girl who wrote “Hooked” the book Mike gave us, and Martin their skipper. We agreed to meet up later when Katya was around.

Steve and Sandy very kindly took us all out to the wonderful Channel Club restaurant overlooking the water. It was a lovely night. We all put on the smartest and cleanest clothes we could find and were taken in a mini bus to the restaurant. The food certainly lived up to our hopes and expectations. I could not resist the prime rib, which was about an inch thick. Puddings were ordered and devoured with great enthusiasm despite the very large main course. It was a jovial and enjoyable evening. Thanks Steve and Sandy!     

26th July. Didrickson Bay to Kalinin Bay. 34 miles

The Duren’s had their revenge the next morning with Ben and Amber being rudely awoken by Steve and Sandy playing the Didgeridoo, harmonica and chucka-chucka eggs in their cabin. We departed for Kalinin Bay and what promised to be another lumpy ride down the coast. We took the smooth water route as much as we could, travelling down Surveyor Passage, Ogden passage and Smooth Channel before entering into the Pacific.  A whale surfaced about 300 feet ahead of us in Ogden channel only in about 60ft of water.

We tried our hand at fishing for salmon again off the north coast of Kruzof Island, a reported “hot Spot” but no luck was to be had. 

We spotted a Nordhaven motor boat in the distance and wondered if it might be our friends, Josh and Natasha, on Samba, whom we met in Sandborn Canal earlier in the summer. Sure enough the AIS confirmed that it was indeed “Samba”. I tried to Hail Josh on the VHF but no luck.

We arrived at Kalinin bay at about 3.30pm and dropped the hook in the bay with only one other boat in the bay. I think everybody was glad to arrive.   

Later in the afternoon, Josh on Samba anchored in the bay and we had a chat. Natasha had to leave to visit her mother so Josh was on his own with the exception of their golden Labrador Loxie. We agreed to meet up the following day.

27^th June. Kalinin Bay.  

We decided to have a rest day and take a hike before heading on to Sitka. Josh had told us about a great hike to Sea Lion cove which is on the west coast of Kruzof Island. So we dinghied and kayaked over to the trail head and met up with Josh and Loxie. We spotted a brown bear on the opposite side of the channel, luckily the bear was running away from us this time, it did however reminded us that we were in grizzly country and should take the necessary precautions. 

We all hiked up the trail to the lake, which is about halfway to the cove and Katya, Amber Ben and I carried on whilst the others made their way back. Sea Lion cove has a wonderful long sandy beach, a rarity in this rugged landscape. We beach-combed for a while before discovering the Sitka surfers camp site – hammocks, fire pits, rope swings and rudimentary benches. The walk itself provides a great work out after being on the boat for a few days. The trail is good and the forest service have carved steps into fallen trees and placed boardwalks across the muskeg section of the trail. It’s a fun walk as well, about 4 miles roundtrip with uphill sections to the lake.

We arrived back at the boat to find that other boats had anchored, one of which looked like an interesting sailing boat, probably home-made and painted matt black. The boat had a number of children aboard and Jude went off to introduce ourselves. She came back later with an invitation to go and eat a king salmon supper! The boat’s skipper, Alan originated from Scotland and was bringing his children and two others for an art camp in Sitka. They had caught a king salmon just on the entrance to Kalinin Bay, where we had been fishing the previous day. Well done to them. Jude, Ben, Amber and Katya went over to Alan’s boat later in the evening and chatted with the children or should I say “young adults”     

25^th June. Pelican to Didrickson Bay. 31miles

Today would be our first passage in the Pacific ocean, heading out of Lisianski Strait with the ebb tide in time for slack water at the entrance to minimize any turbulence which is reported to be quite fierce sometimes. We departed the wonderful town of Pelican at 7am, wishing that we could have stayed another day but our schedule to pack in some sights before all the party left means we have to move on. For some reason Lisianski strait was ebbing north instead of south and this gave us up to 3 knots of current against us at times – we would be late for slack water at the entrance. The exit out of Lisianski into the Pacific was a little turbulent and it lasted for about 1 mile, after that the ocean swells built up. We decided to try our luck at fishing as these are reported to be fertile fishing grounds. Sure enough after about 5 minutes I had salmon on the line. Another five minutes and another Salmon. Then Sandy caught two more. Great, the fridge is full!

The swell built as we made our way south and into the protected waters of Portlock Harbour and on to Didrickson Bay where we dropped the anchor and enjoyed the afternoon sunshine. Jude and I went exploring in the kayaks, playing around in the rapids of a small rive at the head of the bay and I even went for a swim in the relatively warm waters – still cold for only a short swim.                  

Ben continues to entertaining us with his guitar playing and Amber and Katya baked some banana choc chip cookies as well as creating some more artwork. Ben decided that Steve and Sandy needed to hear his Didgeridoo rendition of “Men of Constant Sorrow” which sounded like a water buffalo with bad wind. This was kindly played through their hatch at about 11:30pm. What a kind gent he is.

24th June Elfin Cove to Pelican. 20 miles

We squeezed off the dock in Elfin Cove having shoehorned ourselves on the dock yesterday. It was low tide and we had just under 3 foot of water under the keel. The sun shone and we could see the huge Brady glacier as we set course for Pelican.

A few fishing boats had filled the small dock in Elfin cove. Always a cheerful bunch we had chatted to a few of them and gleaned local advise on our planned passage to Sitka down the outside of Baranof Island. Most cruisers seem to go to Sitka via the protected waters of Peril Strait. One of the fishing boats had a pet Siamese cat which had decided to pay Steve and Sandy a visit in the evening by going through the hatch in the V berth.     

We raised the sails and as we rounded Column point a flock of about 30 crested Puffins flew across our bow. We had been waiting to see Puffins on this trip and we were all delighted to see them flying low around the boat. We made our way down Lisianski Inlet and arrived in Pelican about 1pm. We called up the harbor master to get our slip assignment but there was no answer. We assumed that as it was a lovely day, and we had seen salmon jumping, he must be out fishing. We tied up at the transient dock and we in search of the harbour masters office. As I walked up the dock it seemed that this pretty town was completely deserted, not a soul in sight. Finally we managed to find somebody and they advised us that the harbourmaster had indeed gone fishing. We found the local café and tucked into ice cream before exploring this lovely boardwalk town.

Pelican has a year round population of only about 60 people which swells to around 300 during the summer when charter fishing and commercial fishing bring in non residents. The once mighty cannery at the end of the dock stands forlorn, now out of use with the exception of making ice for the commercial fishermen. It’s up for sale if anybody is interested.

We took the opportunity to give Sarita a bit of a wash-down as she was starting to look a bit dejected. The harbourmaster game to see us and collect our dues. An interesting man who has travelled the world and is looking to move on to Hawaii. Clearly the winters have taken their toll. He is also the police chief and Fire chief for the town.

Pelican is home to the infamous Rosie’s Bar. Infamous he because of Rosie, who is over 80 years old, she has seen life and quite a character. It is a less than salubrious establishment and rumors of certain bar antics reached us before we even arrived in Pelican. Clearly we needed to see what all the fuss was about. So we set a movie playing for Katya and the rest of us walked along the boardwalk to the white and red establishment adorned with red, white and blue bunting, perhaps left over from the 4^th July celebration. It had a certain wild-west look about the place, although it did not have swing doors inside could have come straight out of a western, a long bar with a mirror behind, a piano in the corner, bar stools and tables where people were already past the point of no return on a drunken evening. A loud cheer sounded and a man stood up on the bar with a felt marker in his hand, he was writing his name on the ceiling but as he was doing so the octogenarian, less than deftly, undid the man’s trousers pulled them down along with his boxer shorts. Further cheers sounded from the party he was with and the man waved to the crowed as if some sort of right of passage had been achieved. Five minutes later another man had to attain his accolade and the process was repeated without the element of surprise from the participant or the audience. Apparently this is what Rosie is renowned for.